The cheek is the most prized cut on the fish. There are only two per lingcod, tucked just behind the jaw - small, dense rounds of pure muscle that work harder than the rest of the fillet. That effort shows up on the plate. The texture is firm and almost scallop-like. The flavour is clean and sweet, with more depth than the portion.

Most people never get the chance to try them. Not because they aren't remarkable - but because they rarely leave the inner circle. Fishermen keep them. Chefs who know, ask for them specifically. What reaches retail is a fraction of what's caught, and it only happens when relationships make it possible.

Ours come from the Bryce family - Ian, Lynne, Kingsley, and Alistair - who have fished the exposed west side of Vancouver Island for generations. Hook-and-line. One fish at a time. Processed immediately at sea.

Think scallops. That's your starting point. A hot, lightly oiled pan, a minute or two per side, and a simple pan sauce - butter, lemon, garlic, parsley - is all this cut needs. The texture holds beautifully under heat. It won't fall apart, it won't dry out, and it doesn't need much help. Let it sear, let it rest, and get out of the way.